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Tim's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

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Tim's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby Tim » Sat Jun 01, 2013 9:08 pm

My first project was our boiler ...
I purchased a brand new Keg King 50l keg and a few bits and pieces to modify it into a boiler,
Ok had just enough time to modify the keg ring so that I can add the port later ... I have never done any of this kind of work before so be kind! Lol .. So I have only the basic tools for this job,
Angle grinder, fine bastard file, Stainless Steel cutting disk & a square. I have started with a new 50L keg, but you can do the same with any keg.
IMG_1972.jpg

I then measured 50mm from each handle to the front, and then 45mm down from the top and marked with a pencil, I then used the square to draw a line at 45 Deg as shown.
IMG_1973.jpg

With the Stainless Steel cutting disk I cut the rim first along the lines to approx 15mm from the keg top, then cut along the curve at 15 mm around the rim.
IMG_1974.jpg

After some clean up with the fine bastard file, and a little draw filing, this is what I finished up with!
IMG_1975.jpg

The port is just placed there to show what the cut was for!
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Re: Tom's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby Tim » Sat Jun 01, 2013 9:16 pm

Keg Drain port ...
I had success with soft soldering my first stainless to stainless job using a standard Bunnings blue torch.
I know it's probably basic for all members but it wasn't for me! This elbow and keg base heats up very quickly XD So you have to heat slowly!
I started with a Stainless elbow, and cut about 5mm of to lower it below the level of the keg base ring ... I know I will have to cut a hole in the keg support ring, then raise the keg to a height, so that I can drain the keg after a run, but I wanted the keg to sit flush on the ground until I have made a base! :D
IMG_1976.jpg

20mm Stainless cutting tool from KegKing.
IMG_1977.jpg

Mark center if keg @ 35 mm to center.
IMG_1978.jpg

I used a hand drill, and drilled in spurts using WD40 to lubricate and cool a little ... Since I have been told to use milk ...
IMG_1979.jpg

De-burred the whole using a Dremel tool and prepared the surface for the solder on both the elbow and about 5mm around tank.
IMG_1980.jpg
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Re: Tom's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby Linny » Sat Jun 01, 2013 10:43 pm

looks tidy ,,, just dont lose patience :handgestures-thumbupright: dont want to rush quality... i did and now i want to build another one LOL
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Re: Tom's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby Maheel » Sat Jun 01, 2013 11:10 pm

i found making a ring of solder and then putting it between the fitting and the keg
then heat the hole thing to the solder melts and the fitting drops into place "through" the molten solder worked well for me

but a stainless skin fitting is a great solution if it does not solder well.
https://www.whitworths.com.au/main_item ... lutePage=1
drop it in through the top and bang on the lock nut then use the elbow
VM / Boka / ?
Shotgun Pot head
50L electric Kegs
and associated shed filling stuff......
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Re: Tom's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby Tim » Sun Jun 02, 2013 1:32 am

Positioned ready for solder.
IMG_1981.jpg

You have to heat slowly, make sure you apply the flux paste to both surfaces, heat the elbow a little first as its a more solid object, when the flux starts to smoke start touching the job with the silver solder it will flow very quickly, and you may hear the solder running and falling to the bottom as I did ... Lol to much solder ... My view is more solder then clean up afterwards ... Therefore no leaks lol! I cleaned up with the Dremel tool ... Seems to work very well!
IMG_1983.jpg

I wasn't expecting the joint to be so strong!! I am to used to standard electricians solder ... Which is very weak!
I have marked and center punched a point 11mm below the skirt ready for drilling.
IMG_1985.jpg

Drilled using standard Drill set, I had to start with a small size and increase size by size due to the bit grabbing on the inside edge of the skirt. I am using 15mm copper and a female to 15mm Brass joiner.
IMG_1987.jpg

Soldered and cleaned up nice, takes considerable time for the brass to heat up! If you rotate the work while it is cooling the solder will flow around the joint nicely! :D
IMG_1989.jpg

Cut and soldered a 15mm to 1/2 inch Brass coupling, cleaned up.
Plumbers tape about 6 times around the put on the 1/2 inch ball valve tap ... Make sure to attach the right way around or the tap will not open!
IMG_1993.jpg
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Re: Tom's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby Tim » Sun Jun 02, 2013 1:38 am

Finished!! Yay ... Water pressure tested ... No leaks! Got to be happy with that!
IMG_1994.jpg

Just to let you know, if you have an ALDI near you and you are interested in theses 2 items you need to get there fast!
I will be stripping the power meter and building punchys power element controller and instead of the analogue meter,
I will be using this ... power meter and mounted in an acceptable box.
$14.95 very cheap, will also tell you how much it costs for a run & time etc!
WK20_PD_0064.jpg

If you don't already have of these, they would be ideal for you still & keg builders to see how well the solder has run into the internal joints!
And all the other fun you can have with it ... we fired it up and started to inspect the kids ears ... throats etc the mind boggles to what a mind can come up with one of these devices :shock:
WK20_PD_047.jpg
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Re: Tom's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby Tim » Sun Jun 02, 2013 1:45 am

Element ports ... I have purchased 2 x 2400w elements from Macstill ...
I have taken a center line from the handle hole
using a square down to the lower part of the keg.
IMG_2002.jpg

I used the KegKing hole cutter for the first hole lubricating with WD40 but all the teeth sheared off! Not impressed! The second hole was done via drilling, cutting with the Dremel tool, then filing ... Pretty much the same amount of time!
IMG_2003.jpg

I have used 2 Brass couplings so that I can chamfer each, so that the elements will run almost parallel in the keg. after this was done ... I have about 2 inches distance from each element ... lol not to bad!
IMG_2005.jpg

Cleaned up, cut by eye using a stainless steel cutting blade on the grinder ... 'twas like butter.
IMG_2007.jpg

Silver Soldered and cleaned up ... not my best work lol, but after water testing ... IT DOESN'T LEAK!! Woot! and I have boil tested this ... works perfectly!
IMG_2008.jpg
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Re: Tom's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby Tim » Sun Jun 02, 2013 1:52 am

I have purchased the power meter and cut it down to be used in my element controller!
The internals of the power meter and cut down ready to install into a suitable case.
Before Vandalism
IMG_1995.jpg

I have cut this down to size ... I will show you later that I have to cut a little more ... lol you will see
I had to use a Dremel cutter as I did not have the security tool to open it nicely!
IMG_1996.jpg

Ready to go, I will be placing this inline to 1 of the elements as it will only run 10A or 2400W, and using Punchys cct but running both elements in parallel with a 40A SSD and heat sink 2.5mm internal cable through out. I will be looking into extension cable to the elements that will have a heat coefficient of over 100Deg.
IMG_1997.jpg
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Re: Tom's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby Tim » Sun Jun 02, 2013 1:57 am

Hi guys just a side note for soft soldering ...
I was advised by a member that was experienced to hammer test these joints? ...
The joints seem rock solid, I will be testing a water run first to confirm before wasting a real wash ... I figure the boiler just has to be water tight, as there should be be next to no pressure build up as it is a open cct ... I think it is no different to a soft soldered still ... and the copper joints are soldered. I would think there is more pressure in the piping from the pump to the RC? I have tested for water leaks by filling the keg full of water and leaving overnight to see if there is any leaks ... none so far ... I would no sooner do a hammer test on my still let alone the boiler lol! I did notice when soldering that if I moved the joint by accident, I could see both surfaces had tinned perfectly ... When I solder the Ferrule, I will be tinning both the Keg and the Ferrule ... just to see if there is any difference!
I discovered something while doing these ports ... if you heat the Coupling until the flux just starts to smoke just a little then touch the solder to the joint ... it doesn't melt ... but if you gently heat the solder at the same time, it will flow like water through your joint ... probably saying the obvious ... but in my trade as an electrician .. you would heat your joint, and touch the solder to it ... it would melt and flow ... Just an observation

and the next day ...

I have charged the keg with @ 50 liters of water and brought to boil ... Took 2:30 Hours with a 2400W element ... No leaks ... Joints rock solid .. Very happy, I was quite worried that soft soldering would not work for boiler connections from members posts ... Had a sleepless night lol
I have to say that these silver soft soldered joints are rock hard! may not withstand a hammer blow ... but what soft soldered still would? ... Maybe they would? ... I have seen in YouTube a guy that soft soldered a SS washer to a SS bolt, wasn't neat, but he could not break the joint with a hammer he bent the washer ... I will not be testing this! So if anyone asks ... You CAN soft solder brass or stainless to a stainless 50l keg using a standard blue bottle torch from Bunnings, if done well it will be perfect! And trust me, it really is not difficult ... Just heat the SS or brass object, like your missus would blow dry her hair ... Every now and then take the torch away ... And dab the silver solder ... When the flux starts to smoke take the torch off and dab the solder ... You should see it run ... If not .. Apply the solder to the joint and quickly heat the solder ... When the solder melts take the torch away ... Start filling with the solder around the joint! Add heat as required away from where you are applying the solder ... If you see the solder "bagging" take the heat away ... To hot! It will still work, just wait a little ... 10 - 15 sec then apply the heat to the other side if the joint! You can practice on the cut out side of the rim if you are following me, if you are not quite game! Just remember I use a Dremel to grind a suitable joint area ... @ 3mm larger than the diameter of your object to be soldered ... Use adequate flux ...just like you are painting the job!
If you screw it up or burn your flux ... Pull the work off quickly ... Shake it to get the excess solder off ... Use a wet cloth to cool and get rid if remaining solder ... Then prepare again ... Gently grind ... Then flux ... Then give it another go ... It is easier the second time ... More flux and already tinned surfaces !
And I know all you guys say ... Holy crap no Brass in the boiler ... Well your element surround is brass .. Which touches water ... So I think that this point is really mute.
and I will forge on ... lol
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Re: Tom's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby Tim » Sun Jun 02, 2013 2:06 am

Ferrule port project ...
Marking out the ferrule ... Debated whether to have the ferrule sit inside the boiler or on the boiler ... The latter is less tidy, the former would have to be supported at the correct height, lol I went for the former ... me thinks I can soft solder really well now :handgestures-thumbupright: !
IMG_1999.jpg

Drilled in 2mm increments around the hole, then using a Dremel cutting disk, cut through the left over steel (which really wasn't hard!).
IMG_2009.jpg

I invested in a Dremel Stainless Steel cutter, which was excellent for shaving of the burrs and extra steel over the line.
Cleaned up, next step will be prepping the joint for soft soldering.
IMG_2010.jpg

Ferrule Soft Soldered in place and cleaned up ... If you do this, heat from the inside and apply the silver solder to the outside of the joint, there is a point where you will see the solder tinning and flowing ... Works very well! Tips ... angle your keg so that the ferrule is level ... touch your silver solder with the butane to heat it up ... reduces the heatup coefficients ... lol maybe to much info ... "Makes the silver solder flow better" :lol:
IMG_2011.jpg

Woot ... Tank finished ... Now onto element shrouds!
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Re: Tom's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby Tim » Sun Jun 02, 2013 2:07 am

Finished boiler ... Really did not take that long to modify! I will add a temperature port soon ... before our first run!
IMG_2012.jpg
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Re: Tom's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby Tim » Sun Jun 02, 2013 2:12 am

Next project - Element shrouds.
IMG_2013.jpg

32mm hole drilled with a Bunnings hole saw,
Ground ready for soldering
IMG_2014.jpg

Fluxed and positioned.
IMG_2015.jpg

Soldered ... Needs cleaning lol
IMG_2016.jpg

Polished ... Looks pretty!!
IMG_2017.jpg
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Re: Tom's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby Tim » Sun Jun 02, 2013 2:14 am

... Slowly getting the hang if this ...
IMG_2018.jpg

Just have to drill the holes for the cables elements!
IMG_2019.jpg
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Re: Tom's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby Tim » Sun Jun 02, 2013 2:31 am

Ok next job ... Re-route the piping to incorporate the flow sensor ... Wow what a job .. so much cutting, cleaning ... I know it is a little crooked ... and the soldering needs cleaning up lol ... I had a few drinks, and got a little tired after 3 hours straight lol ... I placed the flow sensor in line with the RC input, PC will run at maximum flow ... I used 2 pressure couplings so that if and when the flow sensor fails, I can replace it!
Bits required for the job ... Before the mod!

I have been looking at the flow sensors, as we will not be able to see our water flow as I will be pumping water from our outside tank and back again, and I think it would be cool to know roughly the water flow through the process so as it will be repeatable! I looked at the Rotameter's and they looked cool, but being a technician I like digital lol...
I did find these cool little flowmeters for $22.95 http://www.futurlec.com/Flow_Sensor.sht ... pQodTlgAyQ which have a Flow Rate 1.5 - 25.0 liter/min I will have one on the input of the RC (Reflux Condenser) port I will had to modify EmptyGlass's masterpieces though ....
FLOWMETER-1.jpg

Re-route the piping to incorporate the flow sensor ... Wow what a job .. so much cutting, cleaning ... I know it is a little crooked ... and the soldering needs cleaning up lol ... I had a few drinks, and got a little tired after 3 hours straight lol ... I placed the flow sensor in line with the RC input, PC will run at maximum flow ... I used 2 pressure couplings so that if and when the flow sensor fails, I can replace it!
Bits required for the job ... Before the mod!
IMG_2021.jpg

Initial layout
IMG_2024.jpg

Soldered and cleaned up slightly
IMG_2026.jpg

IMG_2027.jpg

IMG_2028.jpg
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Re: Tom's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby Tim » Sun Jun 02, 2013 2:33 am

Pressure tested, woot ... no leaks, here's your baby EG ... Mounted, electrics to go! I tested the flow meter ... works perfectly as planned!
IMG_2029.jpg

IMG_2030.jpg

IMG_2031.jpg
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Re: Tom's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby Tim » Sun Jun 02, 2013 2:37 am

Element electrics done!
*Note* Any electrics have to done by a qualified electrician ... Which I am lol
The tags are 2.5mm, I have fibre glass tubing to protect the wires from excess heat, and the possibility that they may be sitting against the copper shell.
IMG_2034.jpg

Soft soldered a M4 bolt to the outside of the shell for the earth! 20mm hole for the cable grommet.
IMG_2035.jpg

Inside view of the earth connected to the shell.
IMG_2037.jpg

Element wires sheathed with the 450Deg fiberglass tube.
IMG_2038.jpg

Finished product, I have tapped a M4 hole to bolt and hold the 2 pieces together.
I have used Heavy Duty outdoor 10A cable to run these elements, the cable and plugs are rated at @16A, The heavy Duty cable is designed to run 2400W 10A continuously with no heat issues.
IMG_2040.jpg
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Re: Tom's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby Tim » Sun Jun 02, 2013 3:05 am

Next project is the dual element controller, it has lots of bits ... and has been designed for future upgradability ... This controller will allow you to adjust the wattage output of 2 x 2400w elements from 4800w combined to next to @0w, it will have a switch to control each element and have a wattage display, which by its very design will tell you how much it has cost to do a run & time etc lol you just have to double it! as it will be monitoring 1 x 2400w element. It will require a dedicated 20A outlet ... I will be putting in a 32A socket into our office to run this beast ... again for future upgrades :D
IMG_2043.jpg

This is the Heatsink that came with the 40A SSVR
ux_a12062900ux0170_ux_c.jpg

I have chosen to incorporate the heatsink into the aluminium shell, I had to cut it down on each side, and to remove to fins ... my logic is .. the fan will suck cool air into the box and blow it through the heatsink, when I punch holes through it!
IMG_2045.jpg

After a little cutting, grinding ... swearing ... dropping bits all over the place ... this is what it looks like together, I will be using heasink compound between the SSVR the Ali case and then the heatsink ... No way this baby will heat up with all of this cooling!
IMG_2046.jpg

After lots of fiddling around .. I chose to mount the 15A power outlets on the right (Inverted) and the Fan on the Back ... this fan is a 240V jobbie 100ma
I will be countersinking these fan screws ... didn't have any on hand lol!
IMG_2047.jpg
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Re: Tom's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby Tim » Sun Jun 02, 2013 3:07 am

Side view
IMG_2048.jpg

Internal view
IMG_2049.jpg
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Re: Tom's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby Tim » Sun Jun 02, 2013 3:13 am

While all of this is going on ... my wife and I created our first TPW tonight, which is bubbling like crazy ... only have a week to get this controller finished lol I can't wait to provide our EmptyGlass engineer crafted 5 plate bubbler still to absorb this and provide us with liquid gold! .... Mmmmm my lips are just quivering at the prospect! :lol:
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Re: Tom's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby Tim » Sun Jun 02, 2013 3:50 am

I will provide you all with a circuit diagram of the finished product ... but a I just haven't had the time ... been working on a iPhone children's game app that is so engrossing :grin:
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Re: Tom's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby rossco » Sun Jun 02, 2013 6:00 am

Great effort mate.
I used the same parts for one of my controllers.
Just mounted the heat sink so it is half inside the box.
Didn't bother with a fan or anything like that, the sink just gets warm enough to to be able to feel the heat at 112v.
Was thinking of retrofitting a fan but I don't think I'll bother.

I put a 5inch piece of copper in the output end of my return line and use a clamp to clamp it above the waterline on the reservoir.
That way you can SEE what water is coming out of the RC and put a finger in to judge how hot it is. I have a flow meter but have not bothered to install it.
Used one of the thermometers mini recommended to monitor reservoir temp and temp of input to the RC. The reason this is important is because as the temp of the input increases you will need to compensate by increasing the flow rate.

Great boiler build, you've almost inspired me to finish mine.
Rossco
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Re: Tom's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby Stainless dude » Sun Jun 02, 2013 6:22 am

Very nice work Tim :handgestures-thumbupright:
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Re: Tom's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby Spud1700 » Sun Jun 02, 2013 10:13 am

Looks good :) with the tungsten tip hole saws you need to go really slow, castor oil makes a good coolant/cutting fluid or just go super slow stopping all the time and checking to make sure it is not getting warm/hot.

Very nice setup
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Re: Tom's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby Aussiedownunder » Sun Jun 02, 2013 12:07 pm

To solve all your problems go buy a tin of treffolex [spelling sounds like ]
If its free pick it up
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Re: Tom's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby emptyglass » Sun Jun 02, 2013 12:46 pm

Well done Tim, very nice work on the controller. And the boiler.
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Re: Tom's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby Googe » Sun Jun 02, 2013 12:54 pm

Awesome build mate :handgestures-thumbupright: alot of people.will.get some.good.idea s out of it :smile: .
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Re: Tom's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby jonnir » Sun Jun 02, 2013 4:10 pm

Mate this looks smick :handgestures-thumbupright:
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Re: Tom's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby Tim » Sun Jun 02, 2013 11:37 pm

Thanks for the encouragement guys ... More hole cutting ...
Internal Layout
IMG_2052.jpg

I will cut a hole 49mm x 63mm this will allow a 1mm border of the black screen border to show through.
The centre line of the case is 72mm
IMG_2053.jpg

Drill holes for the Buttons, that I will be re-routing from the rubber press buttons.
IMG_2054.jpg

Holes cut ... press buttons seated ... I suggest drilling very small holes at first after centre punching, and work up in size until the button fits ... that way they will be perfectly lined up ... trust me if they are 0.1mm out your eye will see it ...
IMG_2055.jpg
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Re: Tom's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby Tim » Sun Jun 02, 2013 11:48 pm

rossco wrote:Great effort mate.
I used the same parts for one of my controllers.
Just mounted the heat sink so it is half inside the box.
Didn't bother with a fan or anything like that, the sink just gets warm enough to to be able to feel the heat at 112v.
Was thinking of retrofitting a fan but I don't think I'll bother.

I put a 5inch piece of copper in the output end of my return line and use a clamp to clamp it above the waterline on the reservoir.
That way you can SEE what water is coming out of the RC and put a finger in to judge how hot it is. I have a flow meter but have not bothered to install it.
Used one of the thermometers mini recommended to monitor reservoir temp and temp of input to the RC. The reason this is important is because as the temp of the input increases you will need to compensate by increasing the flow rate.

Great boiler build, you've almost inspired me to finish mine.
Rossco

Thanks Rossco ... I will upload a pic of the set-up with piping etc ... as this still is in my office, I have water tanks outside so I can't visibly see the water flow ... I have done a pretty cool thing actually ... Water is collected off our office roof and is plumbed to a 6500l water tanks .... soooo I have a pump pumping water through our still, via the flow sensor, then the output from the RC & PC runs via pipes and flows onto the roof ... the heated water flows into the gutters then back into the tank lol ... closed system ... very happy with how the water system runs! :handgestures-thumbupright:
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Re: Tom's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby Tim » Sun Jun 02, 2013 11:49 pm

Aussiedownunder wrote:To solve all your problems go buy a tin of treffolex [spelling sounds like ]

I will look into it ... thanks Aussie :grin:
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Re: Tom's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby emptyglass » Mon Jun 03, 2013 1:37 am

Aussie's got it, thats the ducks guts max
Trefolex, made by CRC. It has been made by many parent companys, but CRC bought the name. The Good stuff is the greasy green paste like stuff.
CRC bought a few other companys and put "trefolex" on the label to cash in on the effectiveness of the original product.
The CRC aerosol trefolex is actualy CRC C.D.T. cutting compound rebadged.

"Tap Magic", "Rocol" and "Cimtap" are great on soft metals like copper and alum.

At the end of the day, even a bit of motor oil will work in a pinch, but most cutting compounds cost less for a tub than the cutting tool you bought. You need something on stainless.
If you are really pushed, milk and lard both have uses.

As an apprentice, we used to use 1/2 Rocol, 1/2 Coconut oil, mixed in a cut off coke can. Smelt like Hawaii.
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Re: Tom's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby sandsquirt » Mon Jun 03, 2013 6:11 am

Very nice build! Thanks for sharing it. I love the sight glass into the boiler. Is that a store bought glass or did you build it?
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Re: Tom's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby Aussiedownunder » Mon Jun 03, 2013 8:24 pm

Emptyglass what is the screws above the site glass are they holding the top on if so how did you seal it
If its free pick it up
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Re: Tom's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby Linny » Mon Jun 03, 2013 9:04 pm

where did you get the ali case from ?
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Re: Tom's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby Tim » Mon Jun 03, 2013 10:40 pm

Linny wrote:where did you get the ali case from ?

Hiya Linny, Jaycar Electronics, I got all the parts there, apart from the 40A SSR and the 2W 500K Potentiometer which I purchased online from RS components.
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Re: Tom's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby Linny » Mon Jun 03, 2013 11:06 pm

:think: hmmm gonna have to look then. Looks real tidy :handgestures-thumbupright:
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Re: Tom's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby Tim » Mon Jun 03, 2013 11:11 pm

I Drilled 6 holes on each end of the heatsink ... in my design the 240V 100ma Fan will blow air into the case, then out through these heatsink holes.
IMG_2057.jpg

Case is finished, just have to prep then paint
Front
IMG_2059.jpg

I have tapped the holes to M4
IMG_2060.jpg

If you drill the holes through to the heatsink larger than M4, and then tap the heatsink holes to M4, when you screw the 40A SSVR to the heatsink it will pull the heatsink tight against the shell ... when you come to assembly stage ... YOU MUST use heatsink compound between the sink,Shell and 40A SSVR this will provide heat transfer from the SSVR through the case and into the heatsink! Make sure that these surfaces are cleaned back to bare metal ... sand paper FTW!
IMG_2061.jpg

Inside view
IMG_2062.jpg

I have used most parts for a future upgrade if required .. I will be running 2 x 2400w 10A elements, it would safely run 2500w 10.4A each, if I wanted to say run 2 3600W 15A I could change out the 2 x 15A power points and upsize to 20A, the 2 switches would have to be upsized to 20A, SSVR, 500K Pot are fine, the Power Meter would be upgraded to a higher wattage version.
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Re: Tom's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby emptyglass » Mon Jun 03, 2013 11:27 pm

Aussiedownunder wrote:Emptyglass what is the screws above the site glass are they holding the top on if so how did you seal it


Its the connection between the column itself and the condenser arrangement. The expanded joint is done with a 4" hand expander and makes a gentle taper at the end of the expanded area, this gives a good seal and the bolts drag it together quite nice. An experiment that worked.
I used M5 x 50mm stainless capscrews and 1/4" copper tube. The sizes are tight, so a cap head bolt or a round head screw is used as a hex wont turn. The nuts at the other end stay locked against the condenser, turn the bolt/screw, nut dosn't turn. This flute was made to go on a 2" boiler connection, so the plate tree comes out the top. Tims parrot connection took a while to nut out and works great. A bolted flange arrangement for the windows was next, but Googe beat me to it.

The design goals for this one was to do it with no triclamps. Trying for a streamline look.
The next one I make will be a little aginst that idea.

I don't think Tim will need to change the plate configiration for a long time, if at all. Not with how hi tech it is now.
I'm waiting for him to say check out my new I-phone still controller guys!
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Re: Tom's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby Brendan » Tue Jun 04, 2013 1:21 am

Good stuff Tim!

Or is it Tom? :confusion-shrug:
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Re: Tom's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby Tim » Tue Jun 04, 2013 9:30 am

I have used Punchy21's cct diagram and modified it for my own use ... its not really a cct diagram, more of a pictorial, but it is easier to picture what is going on.
This device can be made by you, but you MUST have it tested by qualified electrician before turning it on ... you will need to have at least a dedicated 25A circuit breaker, Power point, Plug & cable in your House/shed ... which would have to be installed.
Power Controller.jpg
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Re: Tim's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby Tim » Tue Jun 04, 2013 9:30 am

I have used Punchy21's cct diagram and modified it for my own use ... its not really a cct diagram, more of a pictorial, but it is easier to picture what is going on.
This device can be made by you, but you MUST have it tested by qualified electrician before turning it on ... you will need to have at least a dedicated 25A circuit breaker, Power point, Plug & cable in your House/shed ... which would have to be installed.
Power Controller.jpg
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Re: Tim's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby Tim » Tue Jun 04, 2013 11:04 pm

The Internals of the Power Meter before modification, I have but a LK strap around the screen, you could use a rubber band ... I didn't have one on hand ... already broken a screen due to clumsy fingers lol ... tried to do a Karate Crane and catch the screen in mid air ........ failed!
IMG_2063.jpg

The black ribbon wire is common to all the buttons, I will wire these press buttons to the red external push buttons. I have done this so that I can just cut a hole 1mm larger than the screen, looks beautiful, you could incorporate a hole for the screen and buttons ... but it would not look as neat!
IMG_2064.jpg

Front view with wires soldered in
IMG_2065.jpg
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Re: Tom's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby Tim » Tue Jun 04, 2013 11:07 pm

Brendan wrote:Good stuff Tim!

Or is it Tom? :confusion-shrug:

Sorry Mate ... miss type and ran out of time to rectify! :grin: It's Tim
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Re: Tim's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby Tim » Thu Jun 06, 2013 11:17 am

Finished ... Tested ... works perfectly!
Internal view ... all wiring Done!
IMG_2066.jpg

Rear View ... I have to add Rubber pad Raisers ... approx 5mm height to allow the air flow into the case.
IMG_2068.jpg

Almost finished product ... just need to clean some heatsink compound of the bottom edge, and rubber feet,
and shorten the potentiometer shaft.
it works just as planned!
IMG_2070.jpg
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Re: Tim's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby Spud1700 » Thu Jun 06, 2013 11:25 am

Very, very nice :obscene-drinkingcheers:
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Re: Tim's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby emptyglass » Thu Jun 06, 2013 10:34 pm

Spud1700 wrote:Very, very nice :obscene-drinkingcheers:


+ 1.

:text-coolphotos: :text-goodpost:
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Re: Tim's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby 1 2many » Thu Jun 06, 2013 10:51 pm

Sensational job Tim thats the best i have seen good work. :obscene-drinkingcheers:

:text-coolphotos: :text-goodpost:
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Re: Tim's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby Kapea » Thu Jun 06, 2013 11:31 pm

You I&C guys always build the coolest stuff! Great tutorial Tim.
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Down is towards Earth. :happy-bouncyshadowgreen:
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Re: Tim's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby Tim » Fri Jun 07, 2013 1:17 am

Thanks Guys ...
I gave the hole rig a test run this evening with vinegar & water ... our TPW has finished ... alcohol @11% took 5 days ... clearing time now .. so was champing at the bit to test everything ... Controller works perfectly ... no warmth anywhere ... Cooling .. well lol I will have to clean out the gutters as they were overflowing lol XD ... 32A circuit powering the 20A controller ... Sweet! ... Boiler no leaks ... I was a little worried though ... Rolling boil after 45Mins, I think 4800W maybe more, RC temp at 99 to 102.9C and a fine stream after the PC ... I hope that I am doing this right, and when I actually use a wash the RC temp will be a lot lower, it seemed like to get all of the plates bubbling, I needed a full 4800w input and then the RC almost fully cooling to get a stream? I suppose it will be very different when I run a wash?
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Re: Tim's 5 Plate Bubbler Build

Postby Tim » Fri Jun 07, 2013 1:20 am

Spud1700 wrote:Very, very nice :obscene-drinkingcheers:

Hiya Spud, I love your site ... I will be spending alot of time reading your texts, from a quick read they answered lots of questions that I was thinking about ... thank you. :handgestures-thumbupright:
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