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4" dephlegmator plumbing

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4" dephlegmator plumbing

Postby nwvapors » Tue Oct 23, 2012 4:27 am

Hey folks, just a quick question. I have noticed that some people are plumbing the dephlegmator with the cold inlet on the bottom and the hot discharge on the top and others the contrary. Is there a reason for this? I traditionally put the cold inlet at the end of the vapor trail (or top of the condenser).

Thanks, please lash me with only al dente pasta. :)
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Re: 4" dephlegmator plumbing

Postby nwvapors » Tue Oct 23, 2012 7:52 am

Thanks Smaug, cleared up a lot, nice talking to you.
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Re: 4" dephlegmator plumbing

Postby stubbydrainer » Thu Nov 01, 2012 11:16 am

nwvapors wrote: I traditionally put the cold inlet at the end of the vapor trail (or top of the condenser).


me too ;)

nwvapors wrote: please lash me with only al dente pasta. :)


kinky :?
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Re: 4" dephlegmator plumbing

Postby radiatorboy » Thu Nov 01, 2012 11:32 am

Stubb i saw on punkins still, you put a bleed valve on it but it was half way on the condenser. I thought it would be better on the top.
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Re: 4" dephlegmator plumbing

Postby stubbydrainer » Thu Nov 01, 2012 1:13 pm

radiatorboy wrote:Stubb i saw on punkins still, you put a bleed valve on it but it was half way on the condenser. I thought it would be better on the top.



it is internally ;)
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Re: 4" dephlegmator plumbing

Postby crozdog » Thu Nov 01, 2012 7:49 pm

i run cold in at the top. initially had issues with the depth not filling right up, then worked out if i back flushed first, & then swapped the lines around the condenser would be full.

FYI when back flushing, once there are no bubbles coming out the top, I close the Needle valve on the bottom before turning off the pump & swapping the connections so cold comes in the top

works a treat & only takes a minute or 2 to do when setting up - no extra bits needed
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Re: 4" dephlegmator plumbing

Postby paulmartin » Mon Dec 24, 2012 8:15 pm

Great article! Well, it’s very important that we should be a critic on, who to hire for our plumbing services need. It’s important to get a satisfying result on their job. Thanks.
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Re: 4" dephlegmator plumbing

Postby timmyjane » Sun May 12, 2013 2:02 pm

nwvapors wrote:Thanks Smaug, cleared up a lot, nice talking to you.

Since Smaugs post is gone can anyone remember what he said?
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Re: 4" dephlegmator plumbing

Postby acfixer69 » Sun May 12, 2013 2:14 pm

Don't remember but counter flow is best. But metering valve is what I use on the exit valve.
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Re: 4" dephlegmator plumbing

Postby Moscca » Sun May 12, 2013 9:21 pm

acfixer69 wrote:Don't remember but counter flow is best. But metering valve is what I use on the exit valve.



I use a Parker needle valve to control my cooling but still not happy with it.
Is a metering valve better ?


edit : the range that I actually use is very small, like 1/8 of a turn, I wish this was more ( one turn )


M.
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Re: 4" dephlegmator plumbing

Postby Bushman » Mon May 13, 2013 12:46 am

acfixer69 wrote:Don't remember but counter flow is best. But metering valve is what I use on the exit valve.

I believe counter flow is more important on the shotgun end rather than the dephlagmater. Mine is the opposite and let me explain my reasoning. I want to force the hot water out so by introducing the cold water to the bottom of the dephlagmater it it's pushing everything toward the exit line. Here is a picture of mine but let me explain how it was built. I cut a 4" copper pipe lengthwise and soldered it back together to allow it to drop into my 4" column. This a to as an extra vapor path when I turn down my coolant valve when starting g to collect around the outside. The water in pipe extends inside the dephlagmater to just above the bottom while the outlet is shorter and near the top. Another add on is the restricter that is noticeable in the picture. This serves 2 purposes first it makes sure that I completely fill the condenser but also with the clear lines gives me a visual how much water I am drawing which helps in the control of collection.

image.jpg
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Re: 4" dephlegmator plumbing

Postby midcarolina » Mon May 13, 2013 2:19 am

I think you have either need one or two things...... a bleeder valve at the top..... or baffles that direct all flow to the outlet... it's the same principle of why you need to bleed the air out of a centrifigul pump before it will prime and take off........
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