the modern distiller

Epic Builds

Epic Builds

Postby Dfitz » Fri Feb 15, 2013 10:02 am

I decided to post my attempts at this build on this forum as it seems there are no constraints on size, so bare with me here as this build will take quite a bit of modification of procured components as well as typical fabrication of the two columns. What your going to see may at first give you a feeling of disbelief that it cant be done however, perseverance and consideration will overcome all of the obstacles I'll face in time. That, and perhaps some help with you folks. So this is what I'm starting with;

Image

I plan to add a collar between these two components (the kettle and the dome) flaring the collar with a planishing hammer and adding a 10" ferrule to the bottom of the collar joining the dome to expansion chamber by tri-clamp and be able to remove the top component (the Kettle or Expansion Chamber if you will ) for storage. This expansion chamber and its parent member (the dome top) will be the primary components to the still but will actually be the second phase to this build.

Before getting into the fabrication of the collar and joining it to the chamber and flange, the column build should be considered as the diameter of the expansion chamber's collar and mounting ferrule will be a much larger diameter than the column. In this regard I could in essence start using the column and then modify the dome to accommodate the expansion chamber after fabrication on that component has been completed. Basically, I'll simply cut off the column and re-cut the dome to accept the 10" ferrule and braze it in.

This column will have only 4 plates with disabling valves and 3" site glasses. I'm planning on using the sight glass kits from SD. The plates will have bubble caps, weirs and the plate disabling features using OD's design of the Mk II.

Image

Many other detail features will be used from his build as well. Originally I considered my column to be a 6". I ordered my sheet (24"x 36" w/.97 thickness). This is a stout piece of material @ 11 ga. and in retrospect I probably could have gotten away with 12 ga. I would have used DWV but finding a section less than 20ft. was impossible, not to mention much more expensive.

Image

So here we are! I plan to lay out my sheet @ 6" for the defleg. (though the defleg. will only be 4"), and sight glasses 6" on center. This will give me just enough room at the bottom for collection of re-fluxed liquid to drain back to my pot. I have access to several different fab shops to perform various tasks for me regarding rolling, laser cutting/welding and I will perform many other tasks myself such as fabricating the collar for the expansion chamber, plate tree and product condenser fabrication and plumbing. I also plan a stainless mounting table to accommodate the two components Column and product condenser as well as the third component a re-flux column for neutral. will be fabricated of stainless with exception of the shotgun condenser with will have copper internals. The Table pieces will be cut and bent by power brake by one of the fab shops. In all I expect this build to cost a small fortune. I've gathered about 60% of the fittings I'll need, and together with what you see, the copper bowl dome (21-1/2" diameter), the kettle top I'll use as modified and column plate along with fitting.

First question. With all of the above being considered, do I settle for mediocrity and go with a 6" column, or go for the gusto and use the complete 24" for circumference with will give me a 7.65 diameter column? Roughly 7-1/2"

Second, is there any thing I'm missing here? Another well known individual and I have been batting these ideas back and forth for a spell and Myles I appreciate your input. I'm sure there will be more questions along the way.

Roughly, what will the end result I'm shooting for look like Though not so glamorous?

Image

Yeah yeah... I know...... :crying-yellow: so much detail in fabrication. It'll be a night mare but in the end, worth the trip I hope.

OK let er rip...
Last edited by Dfitz on Mon Feb 18, 2013 11:43 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Epic Build

Postby FullySilenced » Fri Feb 15, 2013 10:08 am

Oh jeez, your dealing with Myles... :confusion-shrug: don't think you could find a much better craftsperson... :handgestures-thumbupright:
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Re: Epic Build

Postby Dfitz » Fri Feb 15, 2013 10:30 am

At the moment I"m using a K/A Banjo burner w/they're 30 psi regulator . Outrageous BTU on this output but its a gas hog. I'll be adding electric assist to save a little on the propane use down the line.
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Re: Epic Build

Postby Dfitz » Fri Feb 15, 2013 10:43 am

25 gallon pot. This can be remedied however by adding a center section which would offer say 40 gal. The only down side is I have height considerations in my shed depending on arrangement of the column position. I have the drain to consider.
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Re: Epic Build

Postby Bushman » Fri Feb 15, 2013 10:43 am

punkin wrote:What size is the pot? That is going to be the limiting factor through your design. Not much point a huge column if you have a small boiler to drive it.

+1, looks like a kettle with an onion dome so that column seems a bit big. A friend of mine tried to drive a 6" column on a keg and the boiler was too small to use t hat size diameter.

Edit: ditzy posted at same time.
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Re: Epic Build

Postby Bushman » Fri Feb 15, 2013 10:45 am

FullySilenced wrote:Oh jeez, your dealing with Myles... :confusion-shrug: don't think you could find a much better craftsperson... :handgestures-thumbupright:

Totally agree what I see is beautiful workmanship!
I started my liquid diet and so far it seems to be working! I've already lost two days.

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Re: Epic Build

Postby Dfitz » Fri Feb 15, 2013 10:50 am

Bushman wrote:
punkin wrote:What size is the pot? That is going to be the limiting factor through your design. Not much point a huge column if you have a small boiler to drive it.

+1, looks like a kettle with an onion dome so that column seems a bit big. A friend of mine tried to drive a 6" column on a keg and the boiler was too small to use t hat size diameter.

Edit: ditzy posted at same time.


I considered removing 2" sections from the kettle on both X sections, but that is a lot of work when you don't know the end result of what you'll end up with. Also consider the collar after being flared will take off most of the lower half of the kettle.

Image

Edit:
Ya know, on second thought, with the expansion chamber not being a rush, perhaps it might be worth considering cutting it down to be a bit smaller. It'll be something I'll be looking into.
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Re: Epic Build

Postby Aussiedownunder » Fri Feb 15, 2013 2:16 pm

Hi is it possible to get more photos with more detail of that commercial still
If its free pick it up
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Re: Epic Build

Postby Philter » Fri Feb 15, 2013 2:39 pm

Thanks Dfitz for sharing your build with us so far. I'm definately watching this thread with interest :handgestures-thumbupright:

I'd also like to see more photos. So far the detail is great.
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Re: Epic Build

Postby chill » Fri Feb 15, 2013 4:09 pm

LOO, if you build anything bigger Australia is going to capsize!
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Re: Epic Build

Postby emptyglass » Fri Feb 15, 2013 8:46 pm

You seem to have it pretty much sused mate.
Only thing I can say on diameter is its going to be easier to get 6" clamps and bit and peices than 7.65". That said, if you got the boiler and heat to push it, why not.
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Re: Epic Build

Postby Maheel » Fri Feb 15, 2013 11:00 pm

emptyglass wrote:You seem to have it pretty much sused mate.
Only thing I can say on diameter is its going to be easier to get 6" clamps and bit and peices than 7.65". That said, if you got the boiler and heat to push it, why not.



i have been thinking about some clamping issues i have at the moment (and avoiding having to pay big $$$ for big clamps)

if you hand made the flanges at your +-7.5 using some 1/2 annealed tube flattened out i reckon you could also make some timber / ply ring "clamps" with SS or brass hardware
it might even make an interesting visual addition to the build if done right.

i was discussing my little issue with a old school carpenter and he drew up some quick drawings of what he might do.
the idea looked a little (or maybe a lot) like how SD sight glass kit fit up but in timber and brass (except was two rings both in half) sandwiching a flange join
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Re: Epic Build

Postby harley » Sat Feb 16, 2013 6:27 am

Hi
If you shall use ferrules and clamps so I recommend you choose the "high" model in 6 "ferrules and up, and also are using the hight pressure clamps to get an even pressure on the entire gasket.

I guess you are looking for flavored products, myself I build a 12 "column with just 3pc plates for whiskey production, cause it just gets 3pc plates instead of 4pc is that many here in Sweden are complaining that the whiskey becomes tasteless when burn it over 4 plates ..

http://www.kothe-distilling.com/en/prod ... n-potstill

http://www.hogacompany.com/distillers.html

I will use my Sd small bubble cups and personally believe that several small transfers more flavor than few large bubbelcaps, but a big one is easier and cheaper to manufacture with ..

If you will use the small bubble caps, my personal belief, and many others that there should be a maximum of 50% of the surface with bubbelcaps and I have personally solved in an easy way ....

Pick plate 100% full with small bubbelcaps and count the number and abolish then 50% and split them apart with an equal distance themselves over the plate ..

I personally will use me a 500 liter Swedish round milk tank, stainless steel boiler and produce a cone of copper WITHOUT reflux ball because I'm worried that it removes too much flavor when I use 3pc plates too ...

I thought from the beginning to build, with reflux ball but changed my mind after I read the statement from lots of different whiskeys clubs like the taste of the products that are distilled in the German plants ... with both reflux ball and 4pc plates ...

but this is my own conclusions ...

Cheers :obscene-drinkingcheers:
Last edited by harley on Mon Feb 18, 2013 1:12 am, edited 3 times in total.
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Re: Epic Build

Postby harley » Sat Feb 16, 2013 6:45 am

Well it is the high model, and it is much stronger so it does not deform so easily ...

Cheers
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Re: Epic Build

Postby Dfitz » Sat Feb 16, 2013 9:51 am

I still should be able to disable as many lower plates I need to maintain the flavor profile I seek. I hear ya though regarding the expansion chamber. This wont be built or added until we see what the column offers. It went out for laser cutting and rolling this afternoon. I'll have to get started on plate & site tubes soon. I'll look into your advice about the smaller bubble caps as well harley.

thanks for the input folks, Its appreciated
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Re: Epic Build

Postby troglodyte » Sat Feb 16, 2013 10:06 am

I think what Harley is getting at is not whether the bubble caps are
large or small, it's that small caps spaced well apart, taking up no
more than around 50% of the plate area gives a larger volume of
liquid on the plate than large caps which leads to better flavour
carry over 8-)
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Re: Epic Build

Postby myles » Sat Feb 16, 2013 11:25 am

Might as well throw this in here ;-)
headspace.png


I have concerns about the 6" column though. I did have something sort of similar in mind for my own 22 gallon keg but have decided to scale it down to closer to 4". Your pot still could look nice enough with the separate headspace, something like this example might be possible.

swan neck.png


You don't actually need a big diameter opening between the boiler and the headspace. The change in vapour speed on the transition into the headspace is one of the factors that promotes condensation of some of the vapour. I think I would reduce the join down to 4".

Getting back to the 6" column though, I don't think the boiler will be big enough. My gut reaction was that you would need a boiler of at least 60 or 70 gallons to make a 6" worth while. Have nothing to back that up though. Also I suspect you will need in excess of 10kW to drive a 6" column.
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Re: Epic Build

Postby harley » Sun Feb 17, 2013 8:22 am

Dfitz

I just have to ask what is the main product that you will produce ... and what do you look for .. flavor or strength ...

this has a significant impact on the design of the equipment and also what mash you will use ... is the molasses or sugar or malted barley, etc. ..

cheers :obscene-drinkingcheers:
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Re: Epic Build

Postby Dfitz » Sun Feb 17, 2013 9:04 am

pretty much everything, Bourbon, Malted Whiskeys, Rum and Vodka
Originally it was the hardest thing for Myles to get me to remove the lyne arm attachment from my drawings. :lol:

I'm considering now, to use my old pot still lid with the kettle attached for pot stilling and just plumb the plated column I'm building straight off of the copper dome lid. This gives me more choices. I think that kettle will make an outstanding pot still head.

Column plate is at the fabricator being laser cut and rolled. I should get it back Tuesday. Here's my dilemma, I travel a lot so when I'm home and have time to practice my hobby my time is short. I want to produce a barrel strength spirit (say 5 gallons), barrel it and get back to work without anything being half finished. So,,, this is where size comes into play.

Today I found a drill press and band saw and snapped up both for a good price. This will give me a better ability to fab up some smaller caps rather than the single cap design. We're only talking 30 or so caps. I have to figure out sizing yet.
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Re: Epic Build

Postby myles » Sun Feb 17, 2013 12:40 pm

This is what I had in mind for mine.
stillroom001.jpg


As I said before my thump tower has been reduced to about 4" and will either be single bell caps or injector tubes (in effect rectangular caps) with a slightly deeper 2" liquid layer on each plate and 100 ml in the lower thumper. Although I may have to reduce the liquid depth now that I have scaled down the column a bit.

I want to strip directly off the pot with the Friedrich, run rum, grappa and whisky through the column with some plates disabled, and vodka with all the plates in use. No neutral, that goes through the packed column to make gin.

I also put this turbulator in the bottom of the onion with the intention of doing single run whisky from the pot still, hoping that it would induce enough reflux by circulating the vapour in the onion. Possibly aided by a damp towel wrapped around the onion.
onion turbulator.jpg
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Re: Epic Build

Postby Dfitz » Mon Feb 18, 2013 6:53 am

myles wrote:Getting back to the 6" column though, I don't think the boiler will be big enough. My gut reaction was that you would need a boiler of at least 60 or 70 gallons to make a 6" worth while. Have nothing to back that up though. Also I suspect you will need in excess of 10kW to drive a 6" column.


60 gallons would be the maximum I would consider I'd need. I have a 60 amp breaker open to use not 10 feet away from where I'd need the serivice. That should give me what I need on the electrical end. I'd still use propane for the main part on stripping runs though.
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Re: Epic Build

Postby FullySilenced » Mon Feb 18, 2013 7:03 am

Myles how did you cut out the fan sections.... did you lay them out and then cut them with a chisel? or how?

FS

I have done the chisel work in the past learned it from my german machine shop instructor... mr god dammit do it as i told you to... he was a great teaher... i learned a lot from him...
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Re: Epic Build

Postby myles » Mon Feb 18, 2013 11:28 am

Don't wish to hijack the post so see here.http://forum.moderndistiller.com/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=1462 :smile:
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Re: Epic Build

Postby Dfitz » Wed Feb 20, 2013 4:42 am

emptyglass wrote:You seem to have it pretty much sused mate.
Only thing I can say on diameter is its going to be easier to get 6" clamps and bit and peices than 7.65". That said, if you got the boiler and heat to push it, why not.


Heat to push it,,, Push it good... :lol:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jet-Burners-88- ... 53f3d95163

880,000 BTU... :-o
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby myles » Thu Feb 21, 2013 7:16 pm

Now that really is impressive. I hope the base of the boiler is thick enough to spread the heat evenly. Are you intending to use an insulated shroud to try and retain all that heat in the vicinity of the boiler?
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Dfitz » Fri Feb 22, 2013 1:59 am

I currently have a 200,000 BTU burner. This company sells other smaller burners similar to the on shown. Actually they have a great resource of parts available if you page through the store.

Lets say I need a larger barrel for a boiler. I have a shop that can make a stainless boiler for me with no problem. AS an AWS CWI, I helped them get their "R stamp" for fabricating pressure vessels so it'll only cost me material wholesale.

My current boiler is only 100qt. a large size in itself for hobby practice and a great size for pot stilling. But, lets say for arguments sake so far that the boiler is too small. I can splice in a piece making it as large as 160qt or 40 gallons without loosing my ability as a BOP. Any larger than that and I have to consider a new boiler size all together.

In this regard I'd have to research the aluminum pad the lies between the bottom plates of the boiler and whether need or whether I can copy this concept. Not a big deal to build a new boiler as I'm not the one actually doing it but still, yeah it would be a pita.
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Dfitz » Fri Feb 22, 2013 3:12 am

Dfitz"
This column will have only 4 plates with disabling valves and 3" site glasses. I'm planning on using the sight glass kits from SD. The plates will have bubble caps, weirs and the plate disabling features using OD's design of the Mk II.

Image

[/quote]

Taken from Harley's statement:

"[quote="harley wrote:
Hi

I will use my Sd small bubble cups and personally believe that several small transfers more flavor than few large bubbelcaps, but a big one is easier and cheaper to manufacture with ..

If you will use the small bubble caps, my personal belief, and many others that there should be a maximum of 50% of the surface with bubbelcaps and I have personally solved in an easy way ....

Pick plate 100% full with small bubbelcaps and count the number and abolish then 50% and split them apart with an equal distance themselves over the plate ..

I am fine understanding this



Cheers :obscene-drinkingcheers:


So my question is..... Is there any merit to the belief that several small caps are preferred to carry more flavor than a single cap?
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby myles » Fri Feb 22, 2013 7:24 am

Dfitz has anyone mentioned yet that the plate disable as shown might be wrong? It depends what you wish it to do.

If you open any valve you bypass all the plates below it. Now that is fine if that is how you wish to run it - choosing the plate count before the run starts. However, if you wish to disable a plate mid-run, then you need to be able to disable them independently and in any order. Just a quick sketch.

drain.png
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Dfitz » Fri Feb 22, 2013 2:18 pm

Thanks Myles. I was planning on three three way valves under the fist plate and a single valve on the first.
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Tracker » Fri Feb 22, 2013 3:04 pm

Dfitz wrote:
So my question is..... Is there any merit to the belief that several small caps are preferred to carry more flavor than a single cap?


Intuition tells me that it would be more to do with the number of vapour slots or holes, rather than the number of caps.
One large riser tube with 50 slots in the cap should be no different to 5 riser caps with 10 slots each.

Fewer slots will result in high speed vapour discharge, more slots will result in a more gentle rate of bubbles. This vapour speed will change the length of exposure within the liquid bath.

Now if more caps also provides more slots than a single cap then I believe the answer would be yes.


Cheers.
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Dfitz » Fri Feb 22, 2013 3:51 pm

Been crazy busy at work. I'll try to get these plates and weir sketched out this weekend. My column is finished but I've been too busy to pick it up. Possibly Monday I can do that.

Thanks guys for the info!
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby myles » Sat Feb 23, 2013 12:56 am

Thinking about this, the longer the bubbles stay in the liquid, and the smaller they are, means more flavour is going to be stripped out. Your conventional thumper has great big bubbles relative to a bubble cap. And a more vigorous "boiling" action with lots of splashing.

I have never looked at the size of the slots on a bell cap, are they bigger? It is almost inevitable that using smaller caps means the total number of slots will increase. I would have expected more slots to equate to more efficient rectification and less flavour.
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Dfitz » Wed Feb 27, 2013 11:11 am

Well, I made a little progress today. I picked up my formed column member from the shop. They did a great job cutting and rolling the sheet for me. Nice & round

Image

Image

Poking around the scrap yard I ran across these little gems. I think they'r drain fittings. They had four but one was a little damaged. I may be able to use them for sight fittings.

Image

Also picked up a few lengths of 6"x12" DWV Had to do some digging but it was worth it. I'll cut the 6" and make plates with it for my shotgun and depleg. May have to do some splicing. If I can get the pipe flattened out enough that notch will fit right into my plate pattern as I'm using weirs.

These might work out real good. We'll see.

Image

Now I just need some home time to get to working on things.
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby myles » Wed Feb 27, 2013 9:23 pm

WOW. That is nice and BIG. Just how thick is that sheet and what sort of seam did they use. Is that welded? Wish I had easy access to somewhere to roll sheet like that, still mine is hexagonal because I want flat surfaces for my sight glasses.

Looking forwards to seeing the stages as the build progresses.
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby emptyglass » Thu Feb 28, 2013 12:57 am

Whats that white stuff on the ground beside the truck?
Not sure what it is, but it looks cold.
Brrrrrrrr...
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby myles » Thu Feb 28, 2013 1:06 am

:roll: Duh! just noticed the black tape. I presume that it is a precisely cut and aligned butt joint that has not been sealed yet. Not a fully finished and ground down joint like I was thinking. If you are going for a butt joint are you intending to braze it? Or have you something more exotic in mind? Dovetails?
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Dfitz » Thu Feb 28, 2013 3:51 am

Material Myles is .097. Yes, that black stripe is metal banding. Its holding the butt ends @ a square groove at the moment. I haven't yet decided whether to chamfer the faying surfaces (per AWS as a lap joint for brazing) Personally I think a simple butt weld with an .030 gap will be fine. After a few well places tack welds I'll remove the banding.

When I picked this material up from the shop the manager offered to make all of the welds. Mighty nice of him! I have 35 years in fabrication and welding but in my current position all I do now is bridge fabrication inspection and job site inspection. I'm not an engineer but I don't mind showing the engineers how its really done :lol:
Given this, t I travel extensively and have very little time at home or to myself for that matter.

I digress.... No Myles nothing exotic, just copper, some silver bearing. Keep in mind my experience as indicated has absolutely nothing to do with building stills.. This is virgin territory for me and as expensive as copper is, I need all the help I can get! :lol:
Last edited by Dfitz on Thu Feb 28, 2013 9:03 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Dfitz » Thu Feb 28, 2013 5:54 am

emptyglass wrote:Whats that white stuff on the ground beside the truck?
Not sure what it is, but it looks cold.
Brrrrrrrr...


I think you distillers refer to it as reflux
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby FullySilenced » Thu Feb 28, 2013 5:59 am

Dfitz as you travel check out the scrap yards you will be amazed at the materials you can find for your project..... unless you just want to use new material... a little time can pay huge dividends in materials and overall cost... from finding kegs to sanitary piping, copper piping and valves... of all sorts... good luck and good hunting... 8-)
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby myles » Thu Feb 28, 2013 7:10 am

Dfitz wrote:Material Myles is .097. Yes, that black stripe is metal banding. Its holding the butt ends @ a square groove at the moment. I haven't yet decided whether to chamfer the faying surfaces (per AWS as a lap joint for brazing)


That's a nice weight sheet. I know you can braze a butt joint in copper, but I tend to feel more comfortable with the recommendation (given for socketed joints) of a 2x sheet thickness overlap. I have to admit that I would probably add in 0.4" wide vertical strip (on the outside) to convert it into a sort of caped lap joint. I am assuming it is already the size you want and that you can't put in a lap joint as it would reduce the diameter.
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Dfitz » Thu Feb 28, 2013 8:53 am

I'm sure with the reinforcement of the plates a square groove butt weld will be fine giving an .030 gap and using GTAW.
AWS calls for a scarf joint. This offers more surface area and gives a better opportunity for the capillary action. In any event. That seam weld is the least of my concerns at the moment. For now I'll put a few tack welds to hold things together while I fit up the components. I really need to sketch the plates. I have some concerns I'd like input on... time is so slim it seems... :(
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Dfitz » Thu Feb 28, 2013 8:57 am

FullySilenced wrote:Dfitz as you travel check out the scrap yards you will be amazed at the materials you can find for your project..... unless you just want to use new material... a little time can pay huge dividends in materials and overall cost... from finding kegs to sanitary piping, copper piping and valves... of all sorts... good luck and good hunting... 8-)


I try to pillage resources where ever I go. Copper it seems is a tough one though. Take Little Rock AR for instance. I spend a great deal of time there. I have a bridge project going on with 65 huge bridge girders being built. I haven't been able to find a single scrap yard that sells copper. They only buy it. I keep looking though.

Now grain & barrels, they have a bounty of, and I've pillaged the hell out of those... :lol:
Dfitz
 
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby myles » Thu Feb 28, 2013 9:09 am

Sorry, for a moment there I thought you were going for a removable plate tree. Yes fixed plates will be no problem. Is it still going to be bubble caps, I did like the idea of those dished Kothe plates that were put up a while back.
myles
 

Re: Epic Builds

Postby Dfitz » Thu Feb 28, 2013 12:15 pm

Sorry about the crap drawing. I'm just trying to show what my issue is using the weir and disabling valves on the plates.

Image

Considering just the plate, this triangular set up would be flipped every other plate throwing off my valve. Hmmmm Wheres Sammy.

Ya know, in my mid I see the burdens, I wished I was more ummm electronically, more artistic.
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby myles » Thu Feb 28, 2013 1:46 pm

That's not a problem, you just need to orientate the flip axis. This isn't spot on but is close enough for illustration. The disabling valves are in 1 of 2 positions on the plate but in the same place relative to the axis. Which hole you drill is dependent on the plate orientation.

platedfitz.png
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myles
 

Re: Epic Builds

Postby myles » Thu Feb 28, 2013 1:52 pm

However, an even easier option is to make sure that the flip axis passes through the disabling valve itself.

platedfitz2.png
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Dfitz » Fri Mar 01, 2013 12:07 am

Well, wherever it lands it'll have to be dead center at edge whichever flop the plate will take at a particular height so that the handles will be aligned.
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby myles » Fri Mar 01, 2013 12:15 am

There is another option which is to put the hole in the plate for the plate disable right in the centre of the plate and just use a longer linkage. Personally I think I prefer the external valve option, as you might occasionally need to clean or replace the valve itself.
myles
 

Re: Epic Builds

Postby Dfitz » Fri Mar 01, 2013 2:55 am

Funny how a little sleep does a world of good. I'll figure my weir dimension on the plate, lay out my chip and then hole left & right (or front & rear) for the valve. After that I'll flip flop my chipped plates in squence and square them on each other for the valve holes. Easy peezy. Sometimes the answer is just too easy to see. :lol: damn

I have this plate to get me started. I think there's enough there for the first two tray plates and my product condenser plates
Image
Depending on how flat I get that 6" piece of pipe I picked up this week, well, I know how flat I can get it, I have a 500 ton press at my disposal :lol: but depending on how flat I can get it after I split it and try to flatten it without the press I may be able to get a little work done this weekend.
Dfitz
 
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Dfitz » Mon Mar 04, 2013 9:23 am

I got a little time at to myself this weekend and worked out some sketches. Even turned out a few parts! First made and last to go on... :smile: I'll clean these up & fair out the radius a bit later. They'll be clamped between a couple pipe halves to form them and match the OD of the column pretty closely.

Image

While I was sketching my hand hole covers I had three jars of yeast starter blow the lids not more than a foot away. Nice... :roll: Guess it was time to pitch, even if the temp was off a few degrees. Luckily I had the plate sketches scanned into the comp.
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