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Epic Builds

Re: Epic Builds

Postby Dfitz » Tue Mar 05, 2013 3:16 pm

myles wrote:However, an even easier option is to make sure that the flip axis passes through the disabling valve itself.

platedfitz2.png


Over the weekend I was playing with several layouts that might work. I considered 7 in this layout @ 1" I'm wondering though if the downcomer removes some surface that I should also consider or am I just over thinking this? If so, this offers a tad over the 50%

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I don't particulary like the valve handles behind the column but this is the only place they will fit. If I put the valve in the center the handle (extended) will conflict with the downcomer on the flip side. If I turn the downcomer a few degrees it will conflict with the hand holes. Perhaps fewer larger caps would be a better choice.

At 7.5" diameter, I think the size and width of the downcomer are correct. The plates will of course be cut oversize to turn for size. Rather than a center hole I've considered several holes drilled using the hole saw pilot for the caps. The plates can be sandwiched between mild steel metal discs (one with a shaft welded or through bolted using a counter sunk bolt) to keep a tight form while turning for a mill to bear fit. The plates won't be as heavy of material compared to the column, only 14 ga. but I think that is heavy enough to work them into place.
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Dfitz » Tue Mar 26, 2013 7:28 am

I'd like someone to double check my calculations before my drilling these plates. I'm using risers @ 1/2" each. I get a surface area of 10% to amount to 4.4" for a 7-1/2 diameter circle. minus the downcomer and weir I'm erring on the side of caution finding a total surface area of 3.9. My use of the 1/2" risers and 1" caps gives me a 3/16" gap around the riser. This is plenty of room for vapor passage so I think the cap size is appropriate.

Any feed back will be appreciated.
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Harry » Tue Mar 26, 2013 10:27 am

I think your main issue is going to be downcomer backup causing tray flooding.

Many Amateur builders don't pay enough attention to downcomers, or even fully understand the role they play in tray hydraulics. What most don't realise, is that foam is carried into the downcomer along with liquid overflow. There, the vapor disengages from the foam and goes upward, leaving clear liquid to do down to the next tray. IThis is a normal attribute of downcomers. If the downcomer is not wide enough to allow this disengaging, then it gets blocked by foam and overflows back to the tray. You can guess the rest.

Many hobby builders have wondered why they have flooding issues. Too small a downcomer area is mostly the reason. Together with running too hard for the design specs. Here's a pic of a good layout. Note the downcomer opening size in relation to the caps size...


HTH

BubbleCapTray.jpg
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Dfitz » Tue Mar 26, 2013 10:44 am

If you were to resize the sketch to a life sized 7-1/2" diameter the down comer is coped to a 3/4" x 4 1/4". I believed it to be sufficient given the amount surface area would that the risers would carry. I've watched quite a few different trays and I believe the down comer to be sufficient but I'm certainly no expert. If I'm incorrect there's no time like the present to make changes, hint hint... :lol: I can easily enlarge the downcomer space.

The other consideration was this plate design. It however covers more than the inferred 10% maximum
Image

Opening the downcomers a bit more I come to 5-1/4". This is probably the largest I can go with them

Image
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Dfitz » Thu Mar 28, 2013 8:19 am

Finally got some parts cut and drilled today. I still have to finish drilling my deflag and fit the tubes.
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After drilling I dry fit the plates. Not a bad fit really. The column tube seems a little out of round.
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I'll get to the shop tomorrow and put a clamp on it & see if the tacks need to come out and slim it up the column a bit. Or, maybe it'll be ok. Its a little too tight to move for adjustment on the tight sides so squeezing it a bit might just do the trick.

All of the plates seem to fit perfect in the column with exception of areas near the sight holes. These were laser cut so perhaps the area suffered some distortion I'm not sure. In any event, after squeezing it a bit perhaps the fit will be good enough to get a weld on it and hold the tube tight to the plate where needed. In the mean time I'll get my risers and caps together.
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Dfitz » Sat Mar 30, 2013 9:16 am

Damn these bubble caps are a lot of work. I've tried two different types of risers but these seem to be working.
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A bit non forgiving where plumb adjustments come in but hopefully the few that are troublesome will get leveled out ok when they're soldered. otherwise they're scrap.

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Unbelievable how much work goes into these little suckers. It takes better than a day to get one plate done. Progress I reckon... :violin:
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Harry » Sat Mar 30, 2013 10:06 am

What's with all the holes in the riser?
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Dfitz » Sat Mar 30, 2013 10:43 am

Harry wrote:What's with all the holes in the riser?


Just playing it safe where vapor flow is concerned. I didn't want the fixture on top to block what flow there should be. Is there a problem with them?

Edit: Hmm well it occurs to me now that its possible that liquid could pass through the holes if I run the still too low. Is this possible?
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Harry » Sat Mar 30, 2013 11:31 am

Bingo!

And a better way to do cap fixtures on risers...


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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Dfitz » Sat Mar 30, 2013 11:55 am

Back to the drawing board.... :crying-yellow: At least in this case education is cheap!
Thanks

So I read SD's Caps use copper caps and copper risers. They look like brass. This was what put me off of the caps initially. That and my cost is a little over 2 bills, Ouch! Do they sell only the risers?
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Dfitz » Sun Mar 31, 2013 3:08 am

punkin wrote:Bubblecaps and risers are all copper. Comes as a set with stainless screw.


Yep, that's what my message from smaug indicated.

I still haven't given up the ghost here. I just recalled that adding the 8th riser may have been a good thing here. Based on my calculations, 3.5" of surface area was optimum given the downcomer size. with the 4" I actually applied, and the lost surface area from cross piece at the top of the 1/2" riser may still be able to use these risers as fabricated minus the holes.

Short of a final adjustment. this will be the set up

Image

Image
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Dfitz » Sun May 05, 2013 12:33 pm

Its been a while since an update on this build so I'll add a little progress. I've completed the bubble caps but thought I'd show some parts as they've been collected.

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I still have to fabricate a neck for the whiskey head so that's what the copper kettle will be used for. Another hunt in the works is who will provide my copper dome. At 32" diameter and 12-16" height it'll be a nice gouge to the wallet. I have two takers so far but I'm holding out for a perfect flanged fit and I'll modify the steam kettle with a mating flange.

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ground the sight tubes for fit. I'll wait for SD sight glass kits to arrive before I cope out the ferrules.

Brazing was completed on the column with pretty good results. Some clean up is necessary yet.
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I think the size, although odd @ 7.68 works out with the size of the ferrule as fit.
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I had a vision to build a copper and brass still (with exception of the steam kettle) and not being able to find 8" brass ferrules I decided to wrap my SS ferrules with some brass bling.
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These covers are being curved cut and brazed to fit but won't be brazed to the ferrule until my clamps arrive for a clean fit up. The clamps will be brass plated for final assembly.

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The product condenser is 3"x3' schedule 10 brass tube. The vapor is being segregated by a copper sleeve. Two flare compression fittings have been brazed on for the dephleg. and parrot cooler so far. The main will feed into the shotgun cond. @ 3/4" (also brass tube) with a main valve. Various other feeds will be controlled by separate valves. I have a little more added bling to offset the brass condenser a bit that I think is really going to look sharp.

I undersized my original dephleg. dimension a little too much. This dimension was calculated into the column height and was going to be fit and brazed in place so I'll be adding another 12" to the columns height. This miscalculation however offers me the opportunity for another plate. This material should be back from the rolling next week or so. Unfortunately I'm scheduled out of town again for the next couple weeks.

More to come.... :obscene-drinkingcheers:
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby myles » Sun May 05, 2013 6:21 pm

Looking good. Are you sure about your dephlegmator calculations? If you go full column width on the dephlegmator and use multiple 3/4" vapour tubes, I would be surprised if you needed a cooled length of more than 4".

What was your predicted maximum power input to the boiler?
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby emptyglass » Sun May 05, 2013 9:28 pm

Looking good. I'm lovin the mix of materials. Top notch.
Have you seen the SD sightglass kits? All brass. Although plated clamps would look cool.

Edit; I agree with Miles, the reflux condenser dosn't have to be all that long to work well.
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Dfitz » Mon May 06, 2013 1:04 am

Myles, Not sure exactly what power input there will be yet. Max I would say could be up to 240 F /25 lbs of steam but I doubt that's what I will see as a majority. after all that's going into this build I wont cheese out on the boiler. Yeah, I kind of thought 6" would be plenty but was going to go with 1/2" tubes. Was advised different and that's probably a safe bet. I'll be using 1" vapor tubes at a minimum. In any event, I trust I'll be covered with a 12" dephleg., and like I say, Another plate is born.

EG, yes I plan to use SD sight glasses. SD is waiting for them to arrive and I'll order. The clamps I'm talking about plating are the 8" Tri-clamps.
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Dfitz » Thu May 16, 2013 4:22 am

With the brass tubing being a bit smaller than my copper fittings (ID vs. OD) I had to open the diameter of the brass tubing a bit. Using an exhaust tubing expander this was pretty simple. After I install my condenser parts this will solder up nicely with a solid fit.

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I got my dephlegmator tube back from the shop where the rolling was completed. I'll braze the seam and get started on the dephleg. and finish the product condenser.

It seems little obstacles like this really can hold things up sometimes. Ah well, such is life. I'm seriously considering a different plate design. I'm not liking the way these weir/downcomer panels are fitting. We'll see.... :confusion-confused:
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby emptyglass » Fri May 17, 2013 11:39 pm

Brazing brass to brass, thats no mean feat.

1 second its all going good, the next its a molten blob.

Well done bloke.

Hope you get your weir fit up sorted soon. No doubt you will, its just time.
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Dfitz » Sat May 18, 2013 2:16 am

I wished I had a spare moment... Work seems to constantly be in the way...

There's more to my consideration for a different plate design. My plates are just over 7.5 inches or rather, close to 195 mm. I currently have 8 bubble caps per plate with room for one more. Given the design and completed riser, I'm loosing approximately 1/3" of the cross section of each riser.

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When I look at SD's 8" plate, I see almost double the caps per plate.
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Get what I'm saying here? In short I think I should have placed more caps onto the plate. when I considered my 10-12% I hadn't taken the riser style into consideration. This combined with fighting a good fit and height on the weirs/downcomers, I'm thinking it may be just be more beneficial to re-cut and drill plates to accommodate tube style downcomers and add more bubble caps. While this is an irritating expense, :angry-cussing: all the same I think its necessary.
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby myles » Sat May 18, 2013 7:24 am

I wouldn't be too quick to change things. When you look at the bell cap plates which have 1 big cap on each plate they must have a much smaller slot area than lots of small capps - but they still work.

Do your area percentages still fit within normal parameters? You could always keep the same number of caps but make each riser and cap a bit bigger.
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Dfitz » Sat May 18, 2013 11:40 am

That'd be 54ish new caps and risers. About 35% of the cost of new plates but a hell of a whole Lotta work involved. :? :-o
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Dfitz » Sat May 18, 2013 11:59 am

The cost of the plate material is a very small portion of the cost of the build in total. Given this, the improper performance of the trays as a whole is a much much greater price to pay. I say leave the garbage at the curb and don't look back.
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Dfitz » Sat May 18, 2013 1:41 pm

I had Chinese for supper tonight. Take a look at my fortune from the cookie.... :roll: :lol:

Image
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby emptyglass » Tue May 21, 2013 9:23 pm

So whats your new plan after making some changes, and learning chineese?
10 + 34 + 6 + 9 + 22 + 33 = 114.
I predict a total of 114 bubblecaps will be needed.

Thats a shame mate, I was looking forward to seeing some weir plate downcomers in action.
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Dfitz » Wed May 22, 2013 5:39 am

emptyglass wrote:I predict a total of 114 bubble caps will be needed.

Thats a shame mate, I was looking forward to seeing some weir plate downcomers in action.


I haven't completely written off the weir/downcomer design. I just can't use it on the current plates. I'm certainly in no rush to finish this build and when I get frustrated I know the best thing to do is back off and wait for a fresh thought or new approach, or maybe a different angle on the same plan. This damn thing is a little like building a friggin ship in a bottle. Adding my time away with work breaking up my rhythm, well,,,,, It'll come together though, all in time. That's the nice thing about complex project. There's always something else to work on while your waiting for a new plan.


114 caps???? Holy shit buddy... :shock: I'm thinking a few less than that... :lol:
In the mean time I'll get some of the other parts finished, the bling on the ferrules, product condenser, dephelg. I also have some pretty neat handles to articulate the valves to get done. Lots of bits & pieces. Its amazing how much the bits & pieces can run up costs..... :shock:
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby emptyglass » Thu May 23, 2013 11:59 pm

Dfitz wrote:114 caps???? Holy shit buddy... :shock: I'm thinking a few less than that... :lol:


It was in the fortune cookie, how can a resonable man argue with that?? ;-)

Yeah, the costs do add up, but so does stopping at the bottle shop. Very nice still you are making there mate. And good of you to share your experiences with us all.
And there always seems plenty to do making one of these things. Thoughts turn to condensers and plumbing....
And there is probably a lot more watching your build than are commenting.
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Googe » Fri May 24, 2013 12:31 am

Yes very nice build mate, the copper and brass looks sweet together :drool: , going to be a beautiful build when its done, good work :handgestures-thumbupright:
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Dfitz » Mon Jun 10, 2013 6:54 am

A little more progress on my column and condensers this weekend.

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I'll be working on my defleg and plates over the next couple weeks. I managed to get some vacation time from work for a few weeks. Whoo hooo!!! :obscene-drinkingcheers:

I have to pick up some flux so that I can braze the ferrules yet. I plan 6 1-1/4" vapor tubes for the dephleg. I'll be introducing cool water from the same side of the dephleg as the output line but the cool water line will continue through the dephleg. between the vapor tubes letteing the water out at the opposite side of the dephleg allowing me to keep my plumbing nice & neat along the inner area between the product condenser and the column. The plate valve levers will be situated to the left side of the column somewhat behind the boiler intake tube.
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Dfitz » Mon Jun 10, 2013 7:32 am

to gauge my water temp I mounted my gauge in a tee with the probe reaching just into the return path.

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As you can see, the probe reaches just into the water path. Its not fully tightened so once I tension the valve into the socket it'll fit just right.

Image
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby cacticlayton » Tue Jun 18, 2013 2:20 pm

Looking good, that thing is gunna be one mean machine
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Aussiedownunder » Tue Jun 18, 2013 5:28 pm

Hi where did you get those temp gauges
If its free pick it up
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby emptyglass » Tue Jun 18, 2013 9:08 pm

Very nice mate, very nice. Please come to the front of the class.
Lovin your work.

Some things that may or may not help. The temp gauge in the water line will give you some good info, but a flow meter is more valuable.
If your water supply is consistantly cold (like from the mains, or total loss) it will make the deflag potentially very sensative. One way around it is to run the cooling water through the product condenser, warming it a little, and makes the deflag less sensative.
I use a small recirc system with a heat exchange (fancy word for old car radiator ;-) ) and a pump. When the tank is cold the deflag is sensative but once it warms up its not quite as sensative.
I tend to agree with you on the bubble caps, it will work, but your possibly missing a bit of potential performance.
You've done everything else right, why stop now?

How do you plan to seal the plates to the column wall? Weirs?
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Dfitz » Wed Jun 19, 2013 3:48 am

My water line to the defleg will come from the product condenser. The needle valve is situated just below the gauge on the outlet line. I considered a flow meter, however, maintaining a regulated temp. is what I understand to be most important. No matter what the flow is, if the temp is or isn't correct, I thought the flow meter would be redundant. I've completed the brazing of the vapor tubes to the dephleg. plates.I went with 1-1/4" vapor tubes. I've yet to assemble and perform the final brazing of the plates to the defleg. as I ran out of silphos 15 and gas. Another job for another day. The inlet and outlet tubes are situated on the same side of the defleg., however the inlet tube runs to the opposite side around the tubes. I'll post up some photos after I get these completed.

At the moment I'm configuring and drilling my column trays. I haven't decided what size downcomers to use but have enough room for either 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" tubes. the photo below shows 1-1/4" tubes. I'm leaning toward 1-1/2" just to play it safe. I was able to provide room for 12-13 bubble caps in this alternate consideration. I also have to consider the valves that will fall under each plate. at the back side of the column.

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So much work involved in little odds & ends. Literally every piece is being crafted to fit just so. I'll be soldering everything that is in contact with the vapor. Risers to the plates and plates to the column. All if the connections that will be under pressure are being brazed, with exception of the sight tubes. These will also be brazed using silphos 15.

Once I get the plates installed, leveled and soldered, aside from some plumbing and installing/brazing in a union for the product tube to product condenser, this will wrap up the column fabrication. Then Its all cleanup and polishing. I'll take a break and move on to the boiler.
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Dfitz » Thu Jun 27, 2013 11:06 am

A little more progress.

After laying out and drilling the new plates, the risers were fit and soldered. The adapters for the valves were also fit and soldered onto the plates.

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The plates were dry fit finding a nice snug fit into the column and the column was marked for the valve actuating handles. The downcomers have yet to be fit. I'll do this before fitting and soldering the plates. I want to get a final height after the valve handles are dry fit into place. This way I can get an exact height on my downcomers in relation to the risers.

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These holes will be drilled to accept a 3/8" compression fitting and brazed for a strong connection. The acuating handles will be a 3/8" SS rod, bent to fit the degree of angle necessary to offer an easy reach. Brazing rather than solder will offer the strength the joint will need to prevent failure later in operation. The ferrule in this fitting will be swapped out with a Teflon ferrule and tensioned just enough to prevent the connection from leaking vapor but loosely enough for smooth actuation.

I'll fabricate and assemble these handles prior to soldering the plates onto the column to assure a smooth action. I also still need to cope the sight tube (ferrules) prior to brazing into place.
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby cacticlayton » Thu Jun 27, 2013 12:35 pm

What kind of filler rod are you brazing with Dfitz? Ive been working with ssf6 silver solder rods, it flows really well but is quite expensive.
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Dfitz » Thu Jun 27, 2013 12:41 pm

cacticlayton wrote:What kind of filler rod are you brazing with Dfitz? Ive been working with ssf6 silver solder rods, it flows really well but is quite expensive.


I use two. For copper to copper I use Harris O. For copper to stainless and copper to brass I use Silphos 15.
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Dfitz » Thu Jun 27, 2013 1:06 pm

Another rod that is about 2/3 the price of silphos 15 is siltron 15.

http://netbraze.com/siltron-products.html

Unfortunately I found this mfg after I bought my last tube of silphos. I did order the siltron and look forward to the savings.
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby emptyglass » Sat Jun 29, 2013 2:00 am

I'm a fan of hard silver solder (50%, 15%, 5% etc), but don't discount the properties of siver bearing soft solder.
A still is usually treated with respect, the need for absolute strength is not top of the list, definatley behind good design, IMO.

The plumbing fittings that may recive some torque are best done with hard solder, but soft solder for the most part works very well.

Biggest benifit is its softer than copper, this is good during clean up, next is reduced heat and reduced deformation. Helps in keeping tolerences tight.

Just a few cents worth, you know what you are doing, and are doing good.
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Dfitz » Sat Jun 29, 2013 5:16 am

emptyglass wrote:Biggest benifit is its softer than copper, this is good during clean up, next is reduced heat and reduced deformation. Helps in keeping tolerences tight.


I hear ya there! For the upper plates I placed a small tack using hard solder to hold my risers in place while soldering in the plates to the column. Just the amount of heat to make those tacks was enough to remove the temper from the tray plate. Not a big problem as the lower two plates will have a looser fit than the upper plates. In this way I can get the plates to lay into place better rather than struggling with an extremely tight fit. They aren't so loose that they're sloppy just not as tight as the upper plates.

To assemble and solder these plates the column will be inverted working from top to bottom, or in this case, bottom to top. I'm more or less relying on the weight of gravity to hold everything in place while the plates are soldered to the column tube.

To maintain an exact 6", I've installed 1/2" tube at the bottom of my downcomer. This just seemed like the easiest way to hold my dimensions from plate to plate. Here are a few photos showing how I accomplished this.

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Once the downcomer was fit and soldered (5-1/2" from plate to the bottom) a 1/2" x 2" tube cut 45 degrees was inserted and soldered into place at exactly 6". This gives plenty of space for drainage as well as holding the proper distance between plates during assembly. In this way, the top plate dimension is set and the other plates when leveled properly follow in suite.

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while assembly is being performed on each plate, I can mark and drill for each compression fitting for the valve handle accurately as I go. The only problem I've found thus far was locating some 7/16" SS tubing I'll need to fabricate my couplings from the valve handles to the stud on the valve. This tubing was ordered though and should arrive next week. I have to install the handle prior to brazing the compression fitting so this is a slight hold up.
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Dfitz » Mon Jul 01, 2013 10:33 am

Today I finished drilling the through holes for the valve handles. With a little effort the plates lined up with the holes which were 6" on center.

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I reamed the holes so that they were slightly thread bearing. I'll braze these compression fittings in when the couplings are fabricated and installed.

Image
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Dfitz » Mon Jul 01, 2013 10:37 am

This fit up was just to be sure I'd have no problems while installing the handles. I fretted a bit over drilling these holes and put it off until I was absolutely sure the planets aligned. I think this will work.

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I'll bend these rods on a power break later this week, TIG weld on the coupling and tap the other end of the handle for the knobs. I found these solid brass knobs and decided the extra bling would be nice.

Image
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Dfitz » Sun Jul 07, 2013 9:33 am

Moving along I finish my dephlegmator. Not too sure I like this plumbing set up; using flared fittings does offer a copper/brass look but I think its a bit rough looking. I'll give it some thought, maybe it'll grow on me. As aabout bonus to adding a larger dephleg, I now a three inch space above the vapor tubes to place a gin basket.

Image

I found a small relief valve that set in nice and tight. I hydro'd out the dephleg when all of the fittings were set in and it worked like a charm.

Image

Image

I was very pleased with this little gem. I still have a lot of sanding, buffing and polishing to do around the fittings. I have a Dremel to do this but those damn pads cost some change. This is the last weekend of vacation. I took a whole month off. :obscene-drinkingcheers:
Next week I'll install my valve handles and solder my plates in. I also still need to install my vapor intake fitting and a few other items before I braze on the bottom of the column.
Dfitz
 
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Stainless dude » Sun Jul 07, 2013 2:54 pm

Great job D, this has been a great thread to follow.. Love your work :obscene-drinkingcheers:
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby hellbilly007 » Fri Aug 02, 2013 12:11 pm

This is a bad-ass build. I eagerly wait for your updates Dfitz. Awesome job thus far
I tend to over think methods forgetting the most simple, effective ways of doing things. I think I look for excuses to buy new tools, lol.
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby cacticlayton » Sat Aug 03, 2013 7:24 am

:text-goodpost: Me to
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Dfitz » Sat Aug 03, 2013 9:41 am

Not really too much progress lately. I brazed my sight glass ferrules and I've soldered in a couple of plates. I have two more to solder in then add the j-trap, the j-trap sight glass to cut in and braze then solder on the bottom cap. I still need to fabricate a drain for the column to the boiler, and then a final polish.

Next I'll fabricate a bench to rest the column and product condenser. This will be attached to the boiler. My wife has a few contacts looking for a candy kettle for my boiler top. Tough to find as my boiler is 30" diameter. I can order one from D. Pickling but I'm hoping I'll find one more reasonable from the antique stores.

Soon I'll start the next stage on this project, modifying my boiler. That'll be much easier working w/stainless.
Dfitz
 
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby cacticlayton » Mon Aug 05, 2013 9:30 am

What happened to the other copper pieces that you had on top of your boiler? I will be curious to see what you use for a stand/ table to mount your boiler and column to.
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cacticlayton
 
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Dfitz » Mon Aug 05, 2013 3:07 pm

The bowl on the boiler that you saw was only a 25 gallon pot. Much too small for this colum. I will use it to test this column though. The boiler I'm using for this column is a 60 gallon steam kettle. There's a photo of the kettle in this thread. I'll have a lot of mods to do on the boiler before its finished.
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby cacticlayton » Tue Aug 06, 2013 9:46 am

Keep us posted on the boiler and I will keep my eye out for a bowl for ya.
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby TheMechwarrior » Wed Jan 21, 2015 4:53 pm

Whatever happened to this build?
Together Each Achieve More.
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Re: Epic Builds

Postby Zombie » Tue Jan 27, 2015 4:59 am

It's a beautiful build, and a very informative thread. I forgot it was here, and I have looked for it before.

Now it's bookmarked.

I may need to be "put down" soon.
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